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The dark sauce on the enchiladas and chiles rellenos seem concocted from an ancient, mysterious alchemy. For the French Professor, who has never set foot in this country before and has tried Mexican food only secondhand in San Francisco when he visited me there, every taste is new. For the next few days, we explore Oaxaca’s cuisine, trying moles in different colors each day—from Amarillo, with tomatillos and chiles, to a black, chocolaty mole negro. Each sauce requires days to prepare, and each bite is a layered, earthy, mouth-warming experience.
The minute Dennis leaves, I eat all my trail mix, explore my little spot—a slick rock tucked under an overhang—and then read the fine print on my medicine bottles. After five minutes, I have nothing left to do. Now I’m supposed to think about the big picture of my life. I dig into my pack, unroll a pair of socks, and smoke the joint I hid inside. I eye the boundaries of my spot, which seems to be shrinking. I can’t sit still in one little place for twenty-four hours, so I immediately get up and move.
I didn’t expect this to be quite so Outdoors 101; I thought we’d be rappelling one another off of cliffs by now. Dennis amusingly picks a nice view and pantomimes digging a hole and wiping with a pinecone or a rock. Then he tells us that under no circumstances are we allowed to bring toilet paper along with us. He says he’s going to sort through our personal possessions, too, to make sure we aren’t carrying any other contraband—drugs, cigarettes, hair gel. I’m suddenly feeling less like a midcareer professional than a juvenile delinquent.